Peaceful Mompiche

‘Where the hell am I!?’ I said to myself as I clambered down off the bus onto the pitch black street of Atacames, ignoring the typical South American bus station chorus of ‘Taxi? Hotel? Taxi?’ that greeted us from the crowd of local men awaiting the arriving visitors.

The Journey.

To get to Mompiche from Quito (where I live), you have to go via Atacames, and our overnight bus arrived there at the rather unhelpful time of 5am. There had been a power cut and as we were the only passengers to get down, I felt a little apprehensive in the complete darkness.

Direct bus from Atacames to Mompiche are infrequent, and we had been told to get a bus bound for Chamanga. Luckily one of the men milling about at Atacames bus station kindly showed us the way to the stop, where some Ecuadorians were also waiting.

At dawn, the Chamanga bus dropped us in a tiny village at this rather distinctive statue – you often see religious imagary on roundabouts in Ecuador.

Virgin Mary statue

We waited at the statue for a few minutes as the sun came up, until another bus came by. We asked the driver “Mompiche?” and he nodded. Bus number 3 did not infact take us to our destination, but to a junction, where a car was waiting to take tourists to the beach town. The driver wanted a dollar each to take us from the main road to the beach. The route cut through dense tropical vegetation; it was beautiful.

Finally we had arrived! It was about 7 am and we set about finding Casa Kiwi, a hostel reccomended in Along Dusty Roads travel blog’s excellent guide to the town.

There, we went to sleep after the long journey through the night. Travelling on a budget through South America generally requires effort: negoticating, hopping from bus to bus, arriving painfully early. 

The Town.

Later on we felt slightly more energetic, and checked out Mompiche. It is a charming little fishing town. Colourful boats line the beach and squwarking seagulls compete against stray cats for fish scraps caught in the tangled nets.

fishing boats Mompiche

There is not a lot to do in Mompiche but for me, that was the whole point of going. It is quiet; there is no bar, no nightclub, no traffic, tiny children walk to school by themselves, and the whole place goes to sleep at 9pm. It is probably not for everyone, but I loved how peaceful the place was.

I loved Mompiche becuase:

The beach is long and wide, and the sand is hot.

black sand

Palm trees line the beach and at the animal sanctuary, you can buy huge coconuts with a straw for $1.

Mompiche beach

The sea is warm and calm, and you can swim in the shade if you go along the beach to the peninsula pictured below.

Mompiche beach

Like all of Ecuador’s coast, it is hot and humid, and the beautiful tropical trees reflect the climate.

tropical trees
spot the bananas

All of the buildings have bamboo frames, some with bamboo balconies, doorways and furniture too, which contributes to a really relaxed vibe.

bamboo building

The sunsets are fantastic.
Mompiche sunset

The seafood is fresh, delicious, and really cheap. Comedores (simple restaurants aimed at locals) offer lunch deals that include a soup, a main and a juice for $3-4, and are a tasty, budget-friendly way to enjoy seafood.

For a chilled weekend away from working in the capital, Mompiche was ideal.

For more about Ecuador’s coast, take a look at my post about Montañita!

Did you enjoy reading this? Please share it or let me know by leaving a comment! Thank you!

3 thoughts on “Peaceful Mompiche

  1. I really loved Ecuador. I think Canoa was my favourite place of my South America trip. Though I went in 2009 and it was relatively undiscovered. Similar vibe. There were no nightclubs but a restaurant would stay open late and pump music late into the night, boozing up the customers with beer bought across the road from the sleeping general store owner. Ahhh the memories 🙂


Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out /  Change )

Google photo

You are commenting using your Google account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s